Cut out all pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings. Be sure to add seam allowances on all pieces
of the top and pants EXCEPT the bias strips (pieces 10, 11, and 12). For both the front and back pieces mark the
ends of the darts on the wrong side with pins.
Finish one side seam and
bottom seams of the pocket with a zig zag stitch or overlocker.
Fold these edges under and
press with an iron. Turn the top pocket
edge under twice and stitch along top to hold in place.
Position the pocket onto the
back of the pants using the markings from the pattern.
Position
the one raw pocket edge along the edge of the dart. Topstitch around the sides and bottom of the
pocket to hold it in place. Secure the
corners with a small zig-zag stitch.
With right sides together stitch the dart closed. This seam will enclose
the raw pocket edge. The dart seam can gradually narrow to nothing at the end. Finish
the back of the seam with a zig zag stitch or overlocker, iron seam away from
the pocket and topstitch.
With right sides facing, attach the rear yoke to the top of pants,
taking note of the pattern markings.
Finish back of seam, iron upwards and topstitch.
Position scoop of front pocket
next to scoop at top of pants front, with right sides facing
and
stitch together. Trim seam allowance and clip along seam. Flip pocket over so
that wrong sides of fabric are now facing, press along finished pocket edge and
topstitch.
Position front pocket piece without a scoop (pattern piece 2) with right
side facing the right side of the front pocket sewn in previous step (pattern
piece 3). Sew along curved edge to
create the internal pocket and finish
raw edges. An optional seam can be sewn
connecting the pocket to the front of the pants along the curved edge.
Close the front darts as was
done with the rear darts, encompassing the raw edge of the front pocket. Finish the backs of the seams, press away
from the front pocket and topstitch.
Sew
the side seams, finish
the raw edges, press to one side and topstitch.
Sew the inner leg seams and finish raw edges.
Hem bottom of pants by turning under twice and stitching.
Sew the crotch seam to create either a real or fake zipper. To sew a fake zipper, sew the crotch seam
together with right sides facing. Turn
the pants out the right way and create a straight front crotch seam by folding
the fake fly
under and to the right. Pin in place and
sew along the curve of the piece folded under (a small flap will have been
created along the front seam).
Waistband:
Sew the ends of the waist band
together to create a loop. Attach the waistband to the pants with
the right side of the waist band facing the wrong side of the pants. Fold the waist band up and press. Fold a seam allowance along the waist band
and press. Fold the waist band in half
towards the front of the pants so that the seam attaching the waist band is
covered and an equal amount of waist band is on the front and back of the
pants. Sew in place leaving a small gap
to thread the elastic through. Thread
the elastic through with a safety pin or bodkin. Stitch elastic together and sew gap in waist
band closed.
Top
The top should be cut from
stretch fabric such as jersey or interlock.
The bias strips should be cut
from a woven (non-stretch) fabric.
Pre-made bias tape can also be used.
For small girls, the top can
also be made from woven fabric.
Add a seam allowance when
cutting the main parts of the top. Do
not add a seam
allowance for the bias strips
(pattern pieces 10, 11 and 12).
When
sewing stretch fabric use a flexible
seam such as zig-zag, overlocker seam or stretch seam on the sewing machine.
Sew the back bias strip to the top of the back piece with the right side
of the bias facing the wrong side of the top. Repeat for the front piece. For both pieces, press the bias strip up and
away from the top. Fold the bias strip over towards the right side of the top
so that the edge of the bias meets the edge of the top and press.
Fold the bias strip over again so that the original seam is covered and
the amount of bias on the front and back of the top is even. Press and stitch
along the bias from the right side of the top to hold in place.
Place both top pieces facing
down with the previously sewn bias strips next to each other.
Attach
the long bias strip to both the front and back pieces by sewing one end of the
bias strip along the curve of the back piece, then sewing the other end of the
same bias strip along the curve of the front piece. The bias in the middle will become the should
straps.
Fold the long bias strips up and over twice as with top bias strips,
including the part in the middle that forms the straps. Sew the bias strip in place starting from one
side of the top, continuing the seam along the straps and then along the other
side of the top.
Sew the side seams right sides together.
Under the arm fold the seam towards the front of the top and hold in
place with a small piece of stitching.
